Tucker Meadow Farm
Tucker
Meadow Farm, nestled in the hills near Earltown, Nova Scotia, is home
to Earltown Country Cheese, a growing herd of certified organic dairy
goats, and their keeper Shelley Roode.
Roode has a
long history of working with dairy cows but the cost of quota deterred
her from going into dairy farming. A friend suggested goats - easy to
handle, and full of personality. Their size also allowed Roode to begin
small in other ways like barn space, equipment and hay land.
“I
started this whole thing five or six years ago making cheese in my
kitchen from a book”, says Roode. “I would bring the cheese over and
make my family eat it!” Shelley has covered a lot of ground since
then.
Roode bought her first goat about four years
ago, and she has slowly been building up her herd ever since. “I knew
going into it that I needed to start small,” states Roode.
With
the help of her mother, Alta MacPherson, Roode is currently milking 35
does, and producing about 70 kg of cheese per week. It takes about 8L
of milk to make 1 kg of cheese. The goats are milked twice a day
averaging just over 2L per goat each day adding up to about 50L of milk
per day. Right now the milk yield is a little low due to the mish mash
of breeds including Saanen, Alpine, and La Mancha.
Initially
the priority was to build a herd that was would meet the organic
certification requirements. Shelley is now looking for a good buck to
breed better milk yields into her herd.
Why sacrifice yield for organic certification at this stage?
Roode’s
decision to go organic was in part inspired by a friend’s battle with
cancer using an organic food based alternative therapy - the Gerson
Therapy. At the time organic dairy products were difficult to find, so
Roode’s friend said, “You could do that!”
For about a
year she concentrated on learning about organic practices, receiving a
lot of information and guidance from Janet Wallace, NSOGA coordinator
at that time. Backed by her beliefs and her research, Roode was
not daunted by the organic certification process. She saw it as an
opportunity to learn more and examine her practices thoroughly.
Being
a food processor - particularly of milk products - proved to be much
more stringent. The Department of Agriculture was concerned about the
organic standards for sterilizing the cheese plant. Alas, challenges
surpassed, Earltown Country Cheese was certified organic by the
Maritime Certified Organic Growers Co-op in June of 2004.
The
ease of organic transition could in part be attributed to the locale of
Tucker Meadow Farm. “This was a good place for me to come when I
started looking for land,” Roode declares. “There are a lot of old
farms that are abandoned - no fertilizers, no sprays - easy to go
organic and not worry about contamination from other sources”.
Presently
the farm includes 100 acres of hay land. The barn opens up onto 30
acres of rolling pasture, which Roode says is more for scampering on
since the goats are not really good grazers - they prefer a more varied
diet.
Currently, Roode is aiming for a more diverse
blend for her feed. Past trials in her hay fields have had mixed
success but she did find that the goats preferred the ‘weedy stuff’ or
in other words, a little variety! “I’d like to have more of a mixture,
what they call a highway mixture with 7 or 8 different species”. Right
now Roode gets her feed mix from Homestead Organics in Ontario but she
is hoping to create her own mix. This will reduce her feed costs and
support local organic grains. Av Singh, the Organic and Rural
Development Specialist of AgraPoint, is helping Shelley to coordinate
this endeavor.
Earltown Country Cheese is a hands-on
operation. Once the goats are milked, morning and night, the fresh milk
goes into the milk tank in the raw milk room, which is required to be
separate from where the pasteurization occurs. Here the milk is cooled
to a storable temperature. It can stay in the milk tank for 48 hours
prior to being pasteurized, so every two days Roode and her mother make
cheese. The milk from the seventh day is used to feed the kids for the
week.
Roode has expanded well beyond her kitchen
forays with cheese making. She currently crafts organic feta, cottage
cheese, cream cheese, ricotta, panir and yogurt. She prefers to stick
to fresh cheeses rather than aged for a quick turn around on her
product.
Before cheese making can begin, the cheese
room must be sanitized from top to bottom, for which hydrogen peroxide
is used in order to meet organic standards. Only then can the lid to
the pasteurizer be opened. The 200L pasteurizer also serves as a cheese
vat. The vegetable rennet goes straight into the vat after the milk is
pasteurized. The whey is then drained out the side leaving the curd for
further draining in cheese bags. Following strict recipes -
particularly where temperature is concerned - Roode can ensure product
consistency.
Originally the expectation was that
Halifax would provide the most viable market for Earltown Country
Cheese, so they started with Homegrown Organic Foods and Great Oceans.
But now Roode is finding that the local market, including farm gate
sales, is exceeding the demand from the city. Stores stocking her
products include Earltown Cornerstore, Sunflower in Antigonish, Healthy
Habit in Truro, and Longhorn Market in Tatamagouche. The cheeses are
also being sold at the Truro Farmers Market and to restaurants such as
Pictou Lodge and Pipers Landing.
Roode and her mother
make all of their cheeses before they get their orders, which can make
production decisions difficult (although the demand is consistently
exceeding their supply). So far there has been no major attempt at
advertising. Sticking with her hands on approach, Roode has even
brought her baby goats and samples of her wares to farmer’s markets for
promotion. Otherwise, Earltown Country Cheese relies on word of mouth
and a tasty, consistent product that sells itself.
Roode’s
goal is for Earltown Country Cheese to become her full-time job
(believe it or not, she is still working 30-35 hours/week); and there
is also talk of getting into chevré, a variety of soft, goat cheese.
The opportunities are endless for this dedicated organic farmer and her
goats!
Shelley Roode can be contacted at (902) 657-0264 or earltowncountrycheese@ns.sympatico.ca
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